Mount CARSTENSZ - 4,900 meters (Oceania)
Carstensz Pyramid is the highest peak of Oceania, rising at almost 5,000 meters in the middle of a tropical forest. The glaciated summit plus the adventure to live with the Dani people in Papua (still in the Stone Age) makes this expedition a unique opportunity to visit one of the most secluded and inaccesible places in the world.
The peak is located in the Sudirman Range composing the western central highlands of Indonesia's Papua province (island of New Guinea). It is the highest point between the Himalayas and the Andes and the highest island peak in the world.
Puncak Jaya is also called Carstensz Pyramid, after Dutch explorer Jan Carstensz who first sighted the glaciers on the peak of the mountain in 1623. The peak was first climbed in 1962 by Heinrich Harrer, Temple, Kippax and Huizenga.
Carstensz Pyramid's North face is comprised of sheer 10,000 foot cliffs which embrace an extensive ice wall glacier.
The route on Carstensz Pyramid follows a series of gullies up the north face for 500m (1,640 ft) of solid rock before breaking out on the ridge. Riddled with notches, the summit ridge undulates for half a kilometer. The descent requires rappels and down climb most of the way. The rock is extremely good, rarely loose, and always provides good friction even in wet weather. The rock climbing difficulty on Carstensz is up to 5.10
Temperatures can range from -10ºC to 15ºC (25-60º F) with occasional sunshine in the mornings, then rainfall or snow in the afternoons and evenings. Winds are variable but can be strong.
Horacio reached the summit of Carstensz in October 4th 2014.
The peak is located in the Sudirman Range composing the western central highlands of Indonesia's Papua province (island of New Guinea). It is the highest point between the Himalayas and the Andes and the highest island peak in the world.
Puncak Jaya is also called Carstensz Pyramid, after Dutch explorer Jan Carstensz who first sighted the glaciers on the peak of the mountain in 1623. The peak was first climbed in 1962 by Heinrich Harrer, Temple, Kippax and Huizenga.
Carstensz Pyramid's North face is comprised of sheer 10,000 foot cliffs which embrace an extensive ice wall glacier.
The route on Carstensz Pyramid follows a series of gullies up the north face for 500m (1,640 ft) of solid rock before breaking out on the ridge. Riddled with notches, the summit ridge undulates for half a kilometer. The descent requires rappels and down climb most of the way. The rock is extremely good, rarely loose, and always provides good friction even in wet weather. The rock climbing difficulty on Carstensz is up to 5.10
Temperatures can range from -10ºC to 15ºC (25-60º F) with occasional sunshine in the mornings, then rainfall or snow in the afternoons and evenings. Winds are variable but can be strong.
Horacio reached the summit of Carstensz in October 4th 2014.